Last month, we gave you the first half of a "primer" of helpful hints which can be given to a customer who is new to "goating" and who is purchasing one of your precious kids. As we promised, this month we're covering the second half of this "primer" and will consider breeding, kidding, and housing, as well as a few miscellaneous random thoughts.

Breeding and Kidding

• We breed only once a year - usually in the Fall. We want the dams to fully recover so that they and their kids will be strong and healthy. We do not suffer a loss of productivity, as the does always give us multiples - triplets and quads not being unusual. Also, we have the benefit of greater milk production if the does are not bred twice yearly.
• Does usually come into stronger heats in the Fall, but they can be bred at any time of year - heat signs are every 19-21 days. Bleating, tail wagging, being off feed, having a clear discharge, possessing a red or swollen vulva, or mounting other goats are the normal signs for which to look. All, some, and in a few instances, none of these signs may be present. For this reason, we like to keep a buck in the pen adjacent to the does. For those not having a buck, a rag rubbed over the scent glands of a mature, virile buck will help bring more visible signs of heat.
• Does may be in standing heat for anywhere between a few hours and three days. We like to breed as soon in heat as the doe will stand for the buck. Then she will not see the buck again during this cycle. We believe this usually gives us a greater preponderance of female progeny.
• We usually wait to breed young does until they are 7 months old and weigh at least 70 pounds. Waiting until they are larger gives us a better chance of multiple kids. In this manner, we have fewer instances of one large kid and/or a problem delivery.
• Pregnancy lasts anywhere from 145 to 155 days, with 150 days a good average. Kids are carried predominantly on the right side, and gain most of their weight during the last two months of the pregnancy. Make certain that mama is eating well (don't make her fat).
• We may pen the doe at night for a few days prior to the expected blessed event. Give the doe a good drink of water, and then remove the water pail just in case she surprises you and delivers early. Finding a drowned kid in a water bucket is a heart-wrenching experience you can do without.
• Read any and all books you can on management and what to expect during kidding. Talk to your veterinarian and a respected breeder near you. Better to learn before hand than to receive a "crash" course on crisis management. Usually, the doe will have no problems.
• We give a couple cups of 100% bran cereal along with some hot water containing pasturized molasses or honey. The doe will usually guzzle a bunch of liquid to replenish the fluids lost during kidding.
• Milk a few cups of colostrum (first milk) from the doe. We prefer to feed the newborns heat-treated colostrum, so you'll have to have this on hand prior to the birthing, because the kids MUST have this first milk - preferably within the first hour of life.
• Milking the doe will stimulate the passing of the afterbirth (do not pull). We try to remove the afterbirth from the ground before the doe eats it. It doesn't hurt if she devours the afterbirth, but it kind of grosses me out.
• Our babies are removed from the dams at birth and fed pasturized milk. The doe will cry a bit, so give her lots of love and extra attention at this time. You then become her "baby", and the bonds between you and your doe will strengthen.

As I said last month - keep in mind that this is how we do things - what works for us. You will undoubtedly want to modify the list to suit yourself. We just hope this list helps you to keep your cherubs happy, safe, and healthy. I'm not certain what subject we'll cover next month. If you folks have any ideas, just let me know. Otherwise, I'll come up with a topic that suits my own fancies. Good luck with your coming kidding seasons.